Kos Yacht spotting

Kos

The island of Kos has been a maritime crossroads since ancient times. Its ancient Mandraki (Harbour) guarded by the Castle of Nerazia provides a pleasant hive of activity and a focal point although the ferries and inter island catamarans and hydrofoils go from a landing stage on the far side of the Castle. Despite regular and devastating earthquakes throughout its history Kos Town has remained on this site benefiting from the seaborne trade.




Kos Marina

But go out of the town a short distance to the hill on which is built the Temple, Sanatorium and Hospital, The Asklepion of Kos where Hippocrates developed the tenets of modern medicine you can see why this island is still a Mecca for yachts of all shapes and sizes. For you are looking across a gentle sheltered stretch of water to the coast of Asia Minor and to the fortress of St. Petrium (modern day Bodrum in Turkey) and sailors have come to this fertile island to rest and restock. From Romans who used it as a half way house on the way to Palestine and Egypt to the Knights of St. John who used it to protect the approaches to Rhodes and harass the ships of the Caliphs.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2011/09/asklepion-of-kos.html


A vintage Camper & Nicholson yacht leaving the harbour of Skala on Patmos

Kos is the most fertile of the Dodecanese blessed with rich volcanic soil and plentiful water. In the ancient Mediterranean the trade routes did not go in straight lines but hugged the coast and on the height above Kos Town occupied by the Asklepion (the Temple where one of its priests Hippocrates practiced medicine) you have a wonderful view over the straights as far as Bodrum (as Halicarnassus home of one of the wonders of the ancient world, the tomb of Mausolus, King of Caria) on the mainland of Asia Minor and you can imagine the scene with ancient galleys. For the Roman Empire this was the stopping off point to / from Syria, Palestine and Egypt where they took on provisions (including the Cos lettuce), used the gymnasia and baths and left the sick to follow on after recovering in the Asklepion and sanatoria. And from guilt or longing they would buy their Roman ladies, Coan draperies, the somewhat saucy translucent numbers for which the island was famous!



Nowadays, with its harbour and modern marina it is a good a place to go yacht spotting as these beautiful Mediterranean waters attract ships to tour the Greek Islands and the historic Turkish coastline. Just as most editions of “Country Life” are bought by Londoner’s then most of the glossy yacht mags which proliferate in newsagents are bought by people who will never own a yacht. Is this “yacht porn?” Well they are certainly very aspirational and unobtainable for most. But they also represent the zeitgeist of design and are frequently financed by people with more money than sense but as J.P. Morgan said when asked how much his yacht Corsair cost “I you have to ask the price, you can’t afford it!”

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/08/kos-town.html

So here is a short guide to some of the passing traffic I’ve snapped in Kos and the Dodecanese over the years.


Air




Interior






Air's bulbous bow which dampens yaw and increases speed through the water

Air was gracing Kos Marina in October 2011 and is a distinctive offering from Heesen, a northern Dutch yard famous for its innovative style and the sea worthiness of its yachts. Air is sixth vessel in the 47-Metre displacement class, a design that resulted from the close collaboration of Heesen Yachts’ in house naval architects and Frank Laupman from Omega Architects, who conceived her stream-lined exterior design with its pelican beak bow – a style that is now Heesen’s very recognisable trademark. The 47-Metre displacement class is renowned for its fine entry at the bow, which incorporates an efficient bulb, its notable top speed of 15,5 Knots and an excellent range of 4.000 Nm at 12 knots. The yacht’s elegant superstructure combined with the sloped wheelhouse windows give Air a particularly sleek appearance.


April Fool

April Fool is a Feadship launched by Royal van Lent and is 60.96-meter (200’). She was delivered to owners who required the finest luxury motor yacht that money could buy. Feadships are the Rolls Royce of the yacht world, hugely expensive but holding their value for years. Dedicated to private entertainment, the onboard logistics synthesize all Feadship’s know-how and experience. Highlights include a four-deck elevator and a custom-developed electric awning on the sun deck. In addition to a superb full-beam owner’s suite, April Fool has four spacious staterooms and fine quarters for up to eighteen crew.







Designed by De Voogt Naval Architects, April Fool is a twin screw motoryacht with a steel hull, aluminum superstructure and a top speed of 16 knots. The owners made an intentional decision to opt for Feadship quality, recognising that this was the only way to ensure their yacht not only looked good but would be technically perfect in every aspect. The name comes from the derision he suffered when he was told he was a fool going into business and it seems he who laughs last, laughs loudest. She was seen in Bodrum Harbour in Turkey in May 2010. Did I mention Feadships hold their value? She is up for sale for 45 million euro.


Duke Town


Saloon





The motor yacht Duke Town is a 37 m 120 (ft) good sized aluminium ship which was produced by Heesen Yachts and conceived by Diaship Design and Omega Design. Sleeping 10 guests and 8 professional crew, motor yacht she used to be called 11436 which was her project name. Launched in 2002 the comparatively recent internal styling illustrates the worth of the design work of Bert Quadvlieg/Frank Laupman. She was moored at Kos Marina in 2009.


E & E

The yacht E & E (ex Jasmin II) is a 42 m explorer yacht by the Turkish shipyard Cizgi Yachts launched in 2011 and is seen here on sea trials in Kos Harbour in October 2011. It is a new generation explorer designed by the well known Vripack studio who, other than designing her elegant exterior, made sure of the sea going comfort for both the Owner's family and their charter guests. E & E charter yacht is available for charter in the Mediterranean - summer season as well as Caribbean during the winter months. Vripack designed Jasmin I which was built by RMK Shipyard on the same principle – the guest cabins are based on the Bridge Deck rather than the traditional accommodation deck below the waterline. This ensures they have excellent views whilst simplifying the complicated plumbing when floors are below the waterline. All of the crew cabins and quarters are located below deck and are completely separated from the guest areas.


Swim platform




Master Cabin

Twin 737 horse power engines are expected to power up this full displacement Expedition Motor Yacht E & E to a speed of 14 knots and to a cruising speed of 11 knots. Her range is 4,500 nautical miles with 10% safe margin). She has been built to ABS class and LY2 code. She has an overall beam of just over 9 metres and a draft of 2.72 metres. E & E's designed weight of 480 tonnes means she is under the crucial mark of 500 tons. When I saw it in the old harbour of Kos (Mandraki) it was on sea trials from its Turkish builder and as can be seen its ballast was still to be properly trimmed.




Mayko

This is Mayko, a “Gentleman’s Yacht” anchored in the road off Kos Harbour with retro tug styling by a specialist Istanbul shipbuilder Taka Yachts. Set up by two Turkish naval architects this company specialises in retro designs in GRP and timber.




An American (Marshall Islands) Azimuth GRP yacht "Delaware" seen in Kos Marina


Ocean Victory and MY Shanti moored side by side in Rhodes


Ocean Victory


Ocean Victory being launched at the De Vries Makkum shipyard

Ocean Victory is one of the top-of-the-range Feadship XL series built at the De Vries Makkum facility. The 75.75-meter (248’6”) Ocean Victory was christened on 18 October 2008 in the presence of hundreds of invited guests and following a spectacular laser show. Designed by Alberto Pinto and Laura Sessa, the interior accommodates fourteen people in the highest degree of comfort and style. The owner’s stateroom incorporates a bedroom, two bathrooms, two dressing rooms and a separate office. There are three lounges onboard Ocean Victory and six guest suites.


MY Shanti now renamed Aquarius and for sale for 67 M euros




MY Shanti

Built for Israel's richest woman, billionaire Shari Arison, "My Shanti" is now up for sale. At 212 feet, My Shanti is one of the world's top 100 yachts according to Power & Motoryacht's list for 2008. The yacht was listed for $103 million. Since this photo was taken in Rhodes in 2009 the yacht has had a name change and is back on the market for a new lower price. Superyacht Times reports that the Aquarius is up for sale for 67 million euros (around $85 million) with Fraser Yachts. The 212-foot yacht was built by Amels in 2007. It has a banquet hall, cinema, eight staterooms, helipad and room for a crew of 17. The interior was designed by Terence Disdale Design.




Mosaique

Designed by the world-renowned Dubois Naval Architects and built by the well respected Turkish Yard, Proteskan Turquoise, Mosaique is a sophisticated and stylish luxury yacht which retains a sense of intimacy and ease throughout her spacious sundecks and aft decks, her opulent interiors and her luxurious suites. She is seen here moored off Kos.






Lady Angels

Seen in both Kos and Kalymnos in 2011 "Lady Angels" is a fairly basic Turkish built GRP boat which shows signs of damage to parts of its superstructure. This is built for commercial holiday cruising rather than as a private yacht.


An unidentified Amels yacht off Kos with Turkey in the background

So many luxury yachts cruise off the Greek and Turkish coasts it can be hard to keep track. Some have distinct features such as dark blue hulls or large oval windows that help to set them apart from the rest, but in general, even the most spectacular of sleek white hulls can be tough to tell apart for all but the most expert naval architects. However what they all have is allure, there are few sites more compelling than a yacht sailing off into the sunset and wondering about the destination of the boat and indeed the lives of those aboard. For me the interest is in the design challenge of building a pleasing environment in what is basically a complex machine loaded with equally complex services and equipment to provide a safe and seaworthy means of transport. Are the people onboard happy? I don’t know but the old adage is that there are only two days a boat really makes you happy; the day you buy it and the day you sell it! I’m not sure if this is true but it would be fun to find out for myself!

Symi, Greece

Gialos, Symi

It was up at dawn to get the Bluestar Ferry “Diagoras” to the wonderful island of Symi where Prometheus is reputed to have given the gift of fire to humans and was turned into a monkey by an enraged Zeus (according to myth!), hence the name; Symi = the Monkey. Although in Greek mythology nothing is clear cut. Symi is also reputed to be the birthplace of the Charites and to take its name from the nymph Syme (in antiquity the island was known as Aigli and Metapontis), and it is Pliny the Elder and some later writers who claimed it came from the word scimmia meaning a monkey. Behind the Mythos there is always some truth and the stories are probably allegories of the the spread of the Dorians along the coast of Asia Minor and the offshore islands. My story there was slightly less dramatic; Zeus opened the heavens and sent torrents down upon me! The journey down from Kos to Symi is full of promise from the very start. You stand on a harbour pier staring at the darkness and like sentinels two huge ferries appear out of the morning gloom and reverse carefully end on to the pier.


The miracle which is the unloading and loading of a Greek Ferry

World Class is not an expression I would normally use about a Greek company but Bluestar and its subsidiary, Superfast Ferries are truly impressive. In the gloom of the morning the two huge ships appear out of the morning gloom having come down from Athens overnight. Efficiently with the assistance of the Hellenic Coastguard, probably the only efficient Greek State agency, they disembark and embark these Titans of the seas efficiently and safely. The Ferries have step free access and, uniquely for Greece, well trained disability aware staff who immediately offered to assist my travelling companion who was using a crutch. We were found comfortable seats in the reception area and when I went up to the coffee bar later the waiter insisted on bringing the tray down to our seats. The boats are well equipped but made in Korea and not in the former shipbuilding nation of Greece which has made itself uncompetitive in this industry as in many other. They are ultra modern with 2 floors of cabins and two floors also of restaurants, lounges and bars. The two hours to Symi pass quickly as we watch the sun rise over the Turkish coast and as we head into the port of Symi, known as Gialos or Yialos, the reason we are on the smaller boat, the 145 metre “Diagoras” becomes obvious as in an amazing manoeuvre it is reversed into the pier with probably only 30 metre clearance.




Bluestar Ferry

Symi / Σύμη, also transliterated as Syme or Simi is a small but historic Greek island and municipality. Geographically, it is part of the Dodecanese island chain, located about 41 km north-northwest of Rhodes (and 425 km from Piraeus, the port of Athens), with 58.1 km² (22 sq mi) of mountainous terrain. The other main inhabited localities on the island are Chorio ("The Village"), Pedi, Nimborio, and Panormitis which is the home of the island's famous monastery which many people from all over Greece submit to a pilgrimage every year to visit. The island has 2,606 inhabitants, mostly engaged in fishing, trade, and tourism. In the tourist season which is roughly May until October, tourists and day-trippers bring the number of people on the island up to as much as 6,000.


The bridge joining the two halves of Gialos


Taverna in Gialos

Symi is one of the most beautiful islands in the Dodecanese, and has a rich history that stretches back to ancient times, when it was known as the Kingdom of Nireas. According to the writings of Homer, Nireas was one of the most handsome and brave of the Greeks, and he fought in the Trojan wars. What followed was the story of the rest of the Aegean islands: the Romans invaded in the 2nd and 1st century BC, the Byzantine years came after, interrupted in the 14th century when the Knights of Rhodes took over. They built a castle on top of the ancient acropolis to protect themselves against pirate raids, and were to stay of the island until the Turks invaded in the 16th century.


War Memorial

Because the Symian boats were extremely fast, the island got the important responsibility of post office to the Ottomans. In return, the island was left pretty much to itself, and did not suffer as many other places around Greeks. The fishermen of Symi were also allowed to fish sponges, which together with the wine production, was to be an important source of income, even though outshone by Kalymnos.





In 1912 the island was given to the Italians, along with the rest of the Dodecanese, and during World War II it was invaded by British and German troops, until its final unification with Greece in 1948. The shipbuilding and sponge industries were substantial on the island and, while at their peak near the end of the nineteenth century, the population reached 22,500. Symi's main industry is now tourism and the population has declined to 2,500. Its nearest land neighbours are the Datça and Reşadiye peninsulas of Muğla Province in Turkey.




Jimmy's Rend-a-Moto

Its interior is dotted with small valleys, and its coastline alternates between rocky cliffs and beaches, and isolated coves. Its main town, located on the northeast coast, is also named Symi and consists of the lower town around the harbour, typically referred to as Gialos, and the upper town is called Chorio or Ano Symi. In addition to its many historical sites, the island's isolated beaches, many reachable only with small boats, are popular with tourists. The Municipality of Sými includes the uninhabited offshore islets of Gialesíno, Diavátes, Kouloúndros, Marmarás, Nímos, Sesklío, and Chondrós. Its total land area is 65.754 km². Other villages on Symi are Pedi, Nimborio, Marathounda and Panormitis.



The harbour area of Symi town, known as Gialos must be rated as one of the most beautiful sights in the whole of Greece. The port has been an architecturally protected area since the early 1970s. Symi is really two places in one. The first, from late morning to mid afternoon, is a harbour thronging with hundreds of day trippers brought over in large excursion boats from the island of Rhodes.





Cameras start clicking as soon as the ferry pulls into the main Symi island harbour at Gialos or Yialos. It is a very impressive sight, a semicircle of Venetian mansions and houses tumbling down the steep hillsides to the shoreline. The ferry hoots madly and the sound echoes around the horseshoe of hills. Gialos is a favourite destination for day trippers from Rhodes and three or four big ferries arrive every day. As a result, it is often packed with visitors poking their way around the stalls that are set out on the long harbour front to meet the ferries.


A typical Xeno

Sponges and spices are the main goods on sale. Symi was once famous for its sponges but those on sale in Gialos today are mostly imported. There are also the usual souvenir shops and waterside tavernas. The Cathedral of Timios Prodromos, which was built in 1830 and refurbished in 1869, with a marvellous pebbled yard provides a welcome enclave just yards from the waterfront. In the right side of Gialos, a clock tower, named Roloi, built in 1881, counts for the Symiots the time which runs quietly in Symi. In front of Roloi, Michalaki the little fisherman (made by Kostas Valsamis) welcomes the ships, yachts and the caiques.




Roloi

When all the day trippers have gone, the atmosphere in the town tends to relax, the hustle and bustle gives way to a much more laid back approach to life. Both the locals and those holiday makers lucky enough to be staying, on the island, coming out for an early evening stroll around the waterfront, then settling down for a quiet, pre dinner drink, and to enjoy the entertainment of watching the yacht flotillas that start to arrive at about this time, attempting to dock for the night.What the visitors may not realise is that this town was left virtually destroyed by the retreating Germans who vindictively let off a huge explosion with the munitions they could not take away. Despite the years of rebuilding and restoration walk in from the waterfront and the scars of this vandalism are still visible.





Above Gialos is the upper town known as Chorio. The main road that runs up from the waterfront to the high town is not for the faint hearted. Named the Kali Strata, it consists of 500 wide steps. Both sides of the road are lined with fine, old neo-classical style houses, some with doorways leading to secluded flowered courtyards.


Chorio

There has been a great deal of building restoration done throughout the town to repair damage caused by the bombing and burning of the town during the Second World War however it still has a fragmented feel with the “centre” being none too obvious essentially a widened strip of road with a bus shelter, bench and kiosk. Many of the day trippers from Rhodes tend to take one look at all the steps and decide to stay in Gialos. But it is possible to catch a small bus whose route runs from along side the waterfront, up around the back to the top of the town. If you do take the bus or brave the steps, then you are rewarded with some of the best views to be found in all the Greek islands. You catch this bus on the far side of the harbour across the small bridge which connects the two sides of Gialos. Be warned, there is no obvious notice on the times of the bus which runs hourly on the hour up and on the half hour down. If Symi wants to improve its visitor perception it could do something dramatic like clean this bus. I have never been on a filthier bus anywhere. It looked like the interior had not been cleaned all season, it is beyond me how a bus driver could go to work every day and have so little pride as to lounge about smoking after each ten minute trip and not clean this mobile pig sty.



Once in Chorio you could visit the famous churches the island is noted for. You could only you will find them firmly closed and in the best helpful Greek tradition there will be no indication of when they might be open. The old town of Chorio is not car or indeed pedestrian friendly with essentially steep donkey tracks and steps. There are really only two places to head for. The Villa Pitse, perched high up in old town has stunning views of Gialos below. The hills surrounding the harbour form an amphitheatre so that on calm days, with the breeze blowing in the right direction, it is just possible to make out individual conversations being carried out way down by the waterside. Villa Pitse is only one of the many interesting buildings to be found, they range from large, lavishly decorated mansions, to much smaller houses, but each one seems to have a character of its own. However in the abscence of a guidebook or notices these are not accesible to the casual visitor.




Symi Museum, Chorio

Worth following the many signs for through narrow climbing pedestrian streets is the Symi Archaeology and Folklore museum which is housed in the house of Nikolaos K. Farmakidis. Here the friendly curator takes pride in showing you the paintings, photographs, costumes and material which shows the history and culture of the island. It is open from 08:30 to 15:00, except for Monday. Down below and part of the same complex is the fascinating four-storied house of Chatziagapitos-Chatziioannis, next to the museum with its impressive wall paintings. This mansion shows you the inside of an aristocratic Symian house with the dining and the sitting room (furniture, settings, paintings and photographs of that period), along with some traditional local costumes and artefacts. For me the most fascinating insight were the small servants quarters with above a ”quarantine” sleeping area for people who had infectious diseases and needed to be kept out of the main house.



The Museum includes the following collections:

» Archaeology collection of artefacts dating back to Classical, Hellenistic and Roman periods
» Byzantine collection
» Folklore collection

Before leaving go onto the terrace for the classic view of the harbour of Symi down below. Going back down to get the mobile pig sty bus back to Gialos you’ll find a couple of cafes aimed firmly at the locals and patronised by economically under utilised young men of the island who firmly laugh in the face of the alleged smoking ban. As with using seat belts and crash helmets this is seemingly a law which only applies to tourists!


The Greeks gave us logic!



In the south of the island and connected to Symi by a spectacular 8km road you will find the reason many Greeks visit Symi, the shrine at Panormitis. However to get there from Symi Town is difficult as buses go at 7.45 and 13.30 hrs, one before the ferry arrives and the second which won’t get you back in time for its departure! Better to go there on a direct boat trip from Rhodes in season. Panormitis is the island's famous monastery which is visited by people from all over the world, and many Greeks pay homage to St Michael of Panormitis each year. The monastery of the Archangel Michael (Taxiarchis Michael) is the most important sight on the island. It was originally built in the 6th century, but what you see today is the result of restoration and new buildings from the 18th century. Panormitis is a small place and there are two museums, a folklore and a religious, as well as a tavern. However the monastery is a substantial complex with facilities for feeding and accommodating pilgrims.






Monastery and Icon of Arch. Michael "Panormitis"

A nave was built on the remains of a Byzantine chapel, also dedicated to St Michael, in 1783. Since those days the monastery has expanded enormously, so much so that its guesthouse can accommodate up to 500 people. The harbour is dominated by a highly decorated, mock-Baroque bell tower that was built in 1905 and is a copy of the bell tower of Agia Foteini at Izmir in Turkey. There is a taverna and a bakery that bakes excellent bread. There is also a small beach. The excursion boats from Rhodes, usually make Panormitis their first port of call before moving on to the main town, so if you wish to try the bread from the bakery you will have to be early, for when the boats arrive they tend to sell out very quickly. As the boats only stay for a very short time, you may think it wise to plan your visit for late morning, early afternoon, so avoiding the crowds.



Since 1995, Symi has hosted the renowned Symi Festival during the months of July to September. This festival was founded by famous Greek political journalist, Ioannis (John) Diakogiannis, who established it in the birthplace of his father Eleftherios C. Diakogiannis. Since its inception it has attracted many of the leading Greek musicians (Katy Garbi, Eleftheria Arvanitaki, Glykeria, Alkistis Protopsalti, Mihalis Emirlis, Dimitra Galani, Despina Olympiou, etc.) to perform at free open-air concerts in the main square of Yialos, and also consists of many dance and theatre events. Well known Greek artist Eva Geraki has painted the Festival programme's cover, each year for the past 15 years.



In summary, Symi is a very friendly island which has not been spoilt by mass tourism, and still retains the traditional Greek island way of life and hospitality. There are no high rise hotels, no villa complexes, just some small friendly hotels, holiday houses and studios which are traditional Symian houses, some of which were originally wealthy sponge merchant’s mansions, renovated with loving care, with modern conveniences which you expect when on holiday. Staying in one of these old traditional houses and living amongst the local people means you will be able to live like an islander and totally unwind and forget the stresses of modern life. Come and see for yourself why people who come to Symi become enchanted with this special island and keep returning year after year.

Σύμη , Δωδεκάνησα - Symi island, Dodecanese – Greece