Pages

Showing posts with label Hanseatic League. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hanseatic League. Show all posts

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Lübeck and its Xmas Market




If retailer’s window displays in London are to be believed at this time of the year our thoughts turn to CHRISTMAS! The popularity of German Xmas Markets has increased over the years with visitors travelling for the great atmospherics at these events with German Food, Drink and crafts to the fore. While the more popular venues are well known (Frankfurt, Cologne, Munich,) my own favourite is the one which is patronised by Germans themselves and is set in the former capital of the Hanseatic League, Lübeck Queen of the Hansa.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/08/lbeck-queen-of-hansa.html





Lübeck is also easy to get to by Budget Airline with deals possible at £10 return. To get there take the airline run by an Irish Accountant www.ryanair.com and land at Lübeck Blankensee Airport www.flughafen-luebeck.de which is 8km from the town. Helpfully Ryanair call this airport “Hamburg” as it is only 80 km from Hamburg! When I first came here (On a day trip!) in 2000 the schedule was Ryanair in the morning, Ryanair in the evening. Today Ryanair operate from Blankensee to 6 locations and the Hungarian airline Wizz www.wizzair.com operates to a further 5. One of the reasons the airport is still here is that the former airbase was bought and is still personally owned by the Tui family who live nearby and who own Thomson Tours and the leading travel operators in most European countries.



A stroll around the Christmas fair area, which was first mentioned in 1648, is an absolute Must-Do for all Lübeck visitors. The market and its some 400 merchants offer toys and Christmas decoration, gingerbread, hot spiced wine and plenty of other things. Unlike the tourist markets elsewhere this is a genuine market patronised by German visitors from Northern Germany and is highly recommended.

See the site on:

http://www.luebeck-tourism.de

Or my post on:

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/08/lbeck-queen-of-hansa.html

The largest Christmas market in Lübeck can be found in the pedestrian zone of "Breite Straße" and behind the Town Hall on the market square "Kohlmarkt".



For children Lübeck offers the famous "Fairytale Wood" where they can see sleeping Hänsel & Gretel and many other fairytale heroes. The market is located in the churchyard of St. Mary's Church.

Another Christmas market featuring a unique medieval ambience is located inside the Hospital of the Holy Spirit. It is one of the most famous Christmas craft fairs in Germany and attracts exhibitors from all the Baltic States.




Craft Fair in the Heligen Geist Hospital

You can also visit the beautiful Christmas Craft Fair inside St. Peter's Church.
On the cold days there you can't beat a hot Eien Punsch - a sort of hot egg nogg which warms the pith of your stomach and miraculously heats up cold feet! Here is the recipe I was able to get.


Hot Egg Nog

Ingredients for a Hot Egg Nogg

• Brandy
• Dark Rum
• Sugar Syrup
• Egg
• Milk

Quantities for one drink:
• 1/2 oz Brandy
• 1/2 oz Dark Rum
• 1/2 oz Sugar Syrup
• 1 Egg
• 3 oz Boiling Milk


Blending Instructions:

• Blend all ingredients (except milk) until smooth and pour into a heat-proof goblet

• Add boiling milk, sprinkle with nutmeg and serve.


Hau' weg das Zeug!



As far as the architecture goes, the town is known for its steeples and spires, high-gabled houses, strong towers and massive gates. Lübeck has a medieval atmosphere and many sites of cultural and historical interest: the Holsten Gate, St. Mary's Church, the town hall and historic administration building (Kanzleigebäude), alleyways and courtyards, the four-mast barque "Passat" that has become the symbol of Travemünde, the Hospital of the Holy Ghost and St. Peter's Church, whose tower offers awe-inspiring views over the town. The town is also billed as the world capital of marzipan, having been the spot where this delightful confection was first devised (there is a legend attached, of course). Samples of marzipan are freely available in Lübeck.


Niederegger Marzipan Museum

Herzlich willkommen auf dem Lübecker Weihnachtsmarkt!

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Art Nouveau District, Riga, Latvia





Riga was a major centre of the Hanseatic League, deriving its prosperity in the 13th–15th centuries from the trade with central and Eastern Europe. The urban fabric of its medieval centre reflects this prosperity, though most of the earliest buildings were destroyed by fire or war. Riga became an important economic centre in the 19th century, when the suburbs surrounding the medieval town were laid out, first with imposing wooden buildings in neoclassical style and then in Jugendstil. It is generally recognized that Riga has the finest collection of art nouveau buildings in Europe. In 1997 the Art Noveau District of Riga was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.





Jugendstil



The Historic Centre of Riga boasts the largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in Europe. Between 1896 and 1913, the city expanded and a housing boom followed. The style which developed in Riga was influenced mainly by German, Austrian and Finnish architects.



Before World War I Riga was a growing industrial city and the wealth of the 'haute' bourgeoisie naturally found its way onto the facades of their new luxury town homes. Many of the designs were of the Art Nouveau style. I am particularly fond of this short-lived style because so much emphasis was placed on creating something unique, free flowing, and just a little 'off the scale.' ...Not so different from today's avant-garde and in a way it’s uniqueness expresses Latvian’s desire to be free and part of the European mainstream.

















Alberta Street



After the revolution of 1905 a distinctively Latvian variation of Art Nouveau developed, known as National Romanticism. Architects started to use traditional Latvian folk elements and natural building materials. Typical elements were steep roofs, heavy structures and the use of ethnographic ornamental motifs.

Riga as a city made its first mark in history in the 1201. In that year, Albert the Bishop of Bremen established his first German fortress here. With his Knights of the Sword he executed a Crusade to the Baltic’s. The town started to prosper as a trading station. This resulted in joining the Hanseatic League in 1282. What makes it different is something to do with Latvia and Lithuania being the last two European countries to adopt Christianity in the 12th Century and as a result most of the traditional symbols and icons are distinctly pagan. Pre-Christian symbolism persists in Latvian folk tradition and can be seen in Art Nouveau buildings which display the face of Mother Nature and the look of intricately carved wood, both of which are distinctly Baltic features. It's a little eerie (and possibly fun) to walk down a dark side street and notice all these symbols normally associated with witchcraft and the devil.





Mother Nature















Walking around in Riga what most surprises is the eclectic architecture. Notably in the Old Town there is always a medieval highlight next to some Stalinist leftover. This diversity in styles adds a lively atmosphere to the town. Generally, Riga is less an open-air-museum like than Tallinn for example. The main reason for inclusion is Riga's fine collection of Art Nouveau buildings. They can be found a few blocks north from the city center. There are several streets adorned with great specimens. The buildings by Mikhail Eisenstein are well restored and freshly painted. Another feature of Riga are the 19th century wooden buildings. They are less prominent than the Art Nouveau ones, and less often renovated.















The architectural and artistic answer to the literary Modernist movement that began in the late 19th century was the Art Nouveau movement in Europe. The Art Nouveau movement reached its peak in the early 20th century, which is when the majority of Riga’s Art Nouveau houses were built, beginning in 1899. Riga’s term for the movement, Jugendstil, comes from the German and Scandinavian movement named after the avant-garde periodical Jugend (“Youth”). Unlike the stiffer sensibilities of Victorian style, Art Nouveau stressed a complete creative freedom, mixing fantastic elements with a tendency to show all utilitarian construction elements as artistic value, with very characteristic elements such as dynamic, undulating, and flowing lines and geometrical ornaments. In Riga, Art Nouveau could be split into two main directions, decorative and romantic-nationalistic Art Nouveau.





Jugendstil Frauenkopf



Riga is one of the largest centres of Art Nouveau, with more than a third of the buildings of its Central District built in the style; other significant centres include Paris, Barcelona, Berlin, Vienna, Krakow, and Moscow and St. Petersburg, among others. The main street for Riga’s Art Nouveau district is Elizabetes, which intersects Brivibas Boulevard. In addition to Elizabetes Street, Alberta and Strelnieku Streets also feature impressive examples of the style. In total, there are over 800 Art Nouveau buildings in Riga, but finding them all would be quite an ambitious undertaking, so I’ll try to guide you to the most noteworthy ones. Significantly, most of the Art Nouveau buildings were designed and built by Latvian architects.











Buildings in the decorative Art Nouveau style by one of the most famous architects, Mikhail Eisenstein can be found at Elizabetes 10a and 10b, as well as at Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 8 and 13. On Alberta 13 stands a building from 1904 which now houses the Riga Graduate School of Law, which is fully restored and publicly accessible. Right around the corner, Strelnieku Street also features eccentric examples of the style. Romantic-nationalist Art Nouveau can be seen in the buildings by Latvian architects E. Laube, K. Peksens, and A. Vanags, such as those on Terbatas Street 15/17 and Brivibas Street 47, 58, and 62. The most famous of the local architects was Mikhail Eisenstein. His son, Sergei, was a pioneer of early cinema. Ironically, Sergei moved to Moscow to make propaganda for the Bolsheviks who despised (and eventually destroyed) the same bourgeoisie that supported his father and fed him as a child.





Art Nouveau Staircase







More information can be learned about Art Nouveau and other architecture in Riga in the Latvian Museum of Architecture located in one of the Three Brothers in the Old Town. The Riga Art Nouveau Centre in Latvia, that used to be linked on the website of the City of Riga, now has its own website where the centre and Art Nouveau architectural heritage of the city are presented and where events related to Art Nouveau in Riga are listed. The Riga Art Nouveau Centre also moved into new premises in the Art Nouveau building located at 12, Alberta Street, the facade having being restored a few years ago and the interior still being in the restoration process.



This is their website; (Only in Latvian at the moment)



http://www.jugendstils.riga.lv/lv



Riga is a rewarding place to visit both for its Architecture and its vibrant urban life. The old town is richly textured with the wondrously titled “House of the Blackheads”, essentially a palace for visiting Hanseatic merchants. Due to their indulgent lifestyle they developed blackheads and turned this into a little joke by calling this rather rich palace after what was originally its nickname! The old town is a rich and rewarding mix with Swedish gun towers, a castle, museums, Art Nouveau district and many fine churches including St Peter’s Cathedral in the Baltic brick gothic style. St Petri has a lift to the top of the steeple affording good views of the city and the river Daugava on which it sits.



I’ll remember it for its energy, sense of purpose and historic and human interest which makes it such a worthwhile travel destination. The persistence of the ideals of personal freedom and free association cemented by trade of the Hanseatic League can be seen in the way the cities of the newly free Baltic countries have readopted their Hanseatic titles after gaining their freedom.



http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/08/lbeck-queen-of-hansa.html



My abiding feeling coming back from Riga is how important freedom is to people who have been deprived of it and how much in the West we take it for granted, not something they will ever do in Riga which is watched over by the symbol of Latvian nationhood “The Freedom Monument.” The Art Nouveau District is another testament of the determination of the people of this small nation to look westwards and assert their unique culture, language and cultural identity. It is a deserving UNESCO World Heritage Site.



See also;



http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/08/riga-capital-of-country-in-transition.html











For more on Architecture and Design see ArchiBlogs in the Blog sidebar.

Monday, December 1, 2008

Buddenbrooks


The Hanseatic Free City of Lübeck



As regular blogistas will know the Celtic Sage’s favourite German City, particularly at this time of year with the Weihnachtsmärkte, is the Hanseatic Free City of Lübeck, a UNESCO World Heritage site and in the 13th Century the capital of the remarkable Hanseatic League and the world’s richest city at that time. One of its favourite sons is the author Thomas Mann who won the 1929 Nobel Prize for Literature (One of 3 Nobel Laureates’ from Lübeck in the 20th Century, the others being Gunter Grass and Willy Brandt) principally in recognition of his popular achievement with the epic Buddenbrooks (1901), The Magic Mountain (Der Zauberberg 1924), and his numerous short stories. Based on Mann's own family, Buddenbrooks relates the decline of a merchant family in Lübeck over the course of four generations. Buddenbrooks was Thomas Mann's first novel, published in 1901 at the age of 25. The German subtitle “Buddenbrooks - Verfall einer Familie”, The Decline of a Family gives a clue to the book’s narrative.


Thomas Mann

His objective was to write a novel on the conflicts between business and artist's worlds, respectively, presented as a family saga, continuing in the realist tradition of 19th century works such as Stendhal's Le Rouge et le noir (1830; The Red and the Black). More personally, he wanted to surpass the literary status already achieved by his eldest brother Heinrich Mann, who met relative success with the novel In einer Familie (1894, In a Family), and who was working at that time on another novel about German bourgeois society, Im Schlaraffenland (1900, In the Land of Cockaigne). It can be said that both of Thomas Mann's objectives were satisfied. The novel stands today as one of his most popular, especially in Germany, and is considered by many to be the novel that best captures the 19th century German bourgeois atmosphere. The city where the Buddenbrook family lives shares so many of its street names and other details with Mann's hometown of Lübeck that the identification is perfect, although Mann carefully avoids explicit pronunciation of the name throughout the whole novel. In spite of this fact, many German readers and critics attacked Mann for writing about the "dirty laundry" of his hometown and his own family. However, although this may be debated, it must be said that the fate of the Buddenbrooks bears no direct resemblance with the author's own family, nor with that of the 19th century German bourgeoisie in general, not even with the "money aristocracy", although merchandising is a central topic.



There will be renewed interest in Buddenbrooks due to a new movie which Warner Brothers are releasing in German and which is filmed on location in Lübeck unlike previous versions, one of which was filmed in Gdansk. It also uses the Mann’s own house in Lübeck which is today the museum dedicated to Thomas, Heinreich and Klaus Mann called Buddenbrook Haus. Armin Mueller-Stahl and Iris Berben head the cast of a 2008 version to be released in December.



The main scene of action of Thomas Mann's Nobel Prize winning novel "Buddenbrooks" is Lübeck. Although the name of the "mediocre trading centre on the Baltic Sea" is never mentioned in the novel, there is not one street, square or place in this novel's city that does not allow itself to be identified in Lübeck. The house at Mengstraße 4 is at the heart of this novel. Exactly on this floor and behind these very windows where the Mann family lived in the middle of the 19th century there is an exhibit about a fictitious family that sits- as described by Thomas Mann - opposite St. Mary's Church in a "landscape room" and a "dining room" with white figures of gods and goddesses.



Thomas Mann (1875-1955) moved to Switzerland in 1933 shortly after the Nazis had come to power and begun a campaign of abuse against him. He was formally expatriated in 1936. In 1937 the University of Bonn deprived him of his honorary doctorate (restored in 1946), which aroused Mann to a famous and moving reply in which he epitomised the situation of the German writer in exile. Mann, who had anticipated and warned against the rise of fascism during the Weimar Republic (e.g., in Mario and the Magician), continued to combat it in many pamphlets and talks throughout the period of the Nazi regime and the Second World War. In 1930 Mann gave a public address in Berlin titled "An Appeal to Reason," in which he strongly denounced National Socialism and encouraged resistance by the working class. This was followed by numerous essays and lectures in which he attacked the Nazis. At the same time, he expressed increasing sympathy for socialist ideas. In 1933 when the Nazis came to power, Mann and his wife were on holiday in Switzerland. Due to his very vociferous denunciations of Nazi policies, his son Klaus advised him not to return.



But Thomas Mann's books, in contrast to those of his brother Heinrich and his son Klaus were not among those burnt publicly by Hitler's regime in May 1933, possibly since he had been the Nobel laureate in literature for 1929. Finally in 1936 the Nazi government officially revoked his German citizenship. A few months later he moved to the United States. He became an American citizen in 1940 and, from 1941 to 1953, lived in Santa Monica, California. After the war he frequently revisited Europe: in 1949 he received the Goethe Prizes of Weimar (East Germany) and Frankfurt (West Germany), but when he finally returned to Europe he settled near Zürich, where he died in 1955.



He never accomplished anything which could be compared to the stature attained by his most celebrated book, which was deeply ingrained with the German bourgeois way of life of his time. Some people say that is a kind of autobiographic novel, where many of the aspects of Thomas Mann's social surroundings and family life were portrayed in the book, with an accuracy and sharpness of a genius, who lived life surrounded by all kinds of problems one could imagine (homosexuality, drugs, family disputes on genius primacy) but who, at the other hand, was, in his own ways, deeply affected by bourgeois values and family affection. When the book was written Mann had only 25 years, which adds content to some theories that mathematical and other type of geniuses minds are in their prime when one reaches 30 years of age, thus explaining the exclamation of Sir Bertrand Russell that achieved fame long after he hit his intellectual prime.




Among the chief works of Mann's later years are the novels Lotte in Weimar (1939) [The Beloved Returns], in which the fictional account of a meeting of the lovers of Werther grown old provides the framework for a psychologically and technically ingenious portrait of the old Goethe; Joseph und seine Brüder (1933-43) [Joseph and his Brothers], a version of the Old Testament story which interweaves myth and psychology; and Dr. Faustus (1947), the story of an artist who chooses to pay with self-destruction for the powers of genius, a fate that echoes the last days of the Third Reich; the collections of essays Leiden und Grösse der Meister (1935) [ Suffering and Greatness of the Masters]; and the essay on Schiller, Versuch über Schiller (1955). A complete edition of his works in twelve volumes was published in Berlin (1956) and in Frankfurt (1960).


Thomas Mann 1937

In his biographical note provided to the Nobel Committee in 1929 Thomas Mann describes his early life and childhood in Lübeck;

“I was born in Lübeck on June 6, 1875, the second son of a merchant and senator of the Free City, Johann Heinrich Mann, and his wife Julia da Silva Bruhns. My father was the grandson and great-grandson of Lübeck citizens, but my mother first saw the light of day in Rio de Janeiro as the daughter of a German plantation owner and a Portuguese-Creole Brazilian. She was taken to Germany at the age of seven.



I was designated to take over my father's grain firm, which commemorated its centenary during my boyhood, and I attended the science division of the «Katharineum» at Lübeck. I loathed school and up to the very end failed to meet its requirements, owing to an innate and paralyzing resistance to any external demands, which I later learned to correct only with great difficulty. Whatever education I possess I acquired in a free and autodidactic manner. Official instruction failed to instil in me any but the most rudimentary knowledge.

When I was fifteen, my father died, a comparatively young man. The firm was liquidated. A little later my mother left the town with the younger children in order to settle in the south of Germany, in Munich.

After finishing school rather ingloriously, I followed her and for the time being became a clerk in the office of a Munich insurance company whose director had been a friend of my father's. Later, by way of preparing for a career in journalism, I attended lectures in history, economics, art history, and literature at the university and the polytechnic. In between I spent a year in Italy with my brother Heinrich, my elder by four years. During this time my first collection of short stories, Der kleine Herr Friedemann (1898) [Little Herr Friedemann], was published. In Rome, I also began to write the novel Buddenbrooks, which appeared in 1901 and which since then has been such a favourite with the German public that today over a million copies of it are in circulation.”



Buddenbrookhaus

His former home, now designated Buddenbrookhaus, is worth a visit both to see a restored (and after wartime bombing, reconstructed) 19th Century merchant’s house and for the permanent exhibitions on the Mann family. Both new permanent exhibitions "The Manns - a literary family" and "Buddenbrooks - Novel of the Century" are at the centre complemented by further literary experiences and literary and cultural events. Sometimes reality follows fiction. The house with the white Baroque facade has of course never been the home of the Buddenbrooks, as they were a product of Thomas Mann's literary imagination. Nevertheless, the building is known by their name today. This might be absolutely justified, since the fictitious Buddenbrook family had more than a few characteristics in common with the Manns. And the Manns really did live here - Thomas Mann described the place of his youth in his novel “Buddenbrooks”.



Today, the house is nothing but a stylish piece of scenery. The original mansion of 1758 which contained all the rooms as described in the famous book was destroyed by RAF bombs and only the facade remains. A new building was erected behind it in 1957, and a permanent exhibition on the work of Thomas and Heinrich Mann is displayed here. A number of rooms have also been decorated according to the novel.

Mann's diaries, unsealed in 1975, tell of his struggles with his sexuality, which found reflection in his works, most prominently through the obsession of the elderly Aschenbach for the 14-year-old Polish boy Tadzio in the novella Death in Venice (Der Tod in Venedig, 1912). Anthony Heilbut's biography Thomas Mann: Eros and Literature (1997) was widely acclaimed for uncovering the centrality of Mann's sexuality to his oeuvre. Gilbert Adair's work The Real Tadzio describes how, in the summer of 1911, Mann had been staying at the Grand Hôtel des Bains in Venice with his wife and brother when he became enraptured by the angelic figure of Władysław Moes, an 11-year-old Polish boy.

Hopefully the movie will be released before too long in English so a wider audience can appreciate Buddenbrooks and the medieval gem which is the Hanseatic Free City of Lübeck.

See the trailer (in German) for the movie on this link;

http://www.buddenbrooks-derfilm.de

See; Lübeck; Queen of the Hansa

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/08/lbeck-queen-of-hansa.html



Thomas Mann Grave - Zürich

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...