A White Xmas in the Chilterns

Thatched Cottages Wendover

Christmas this year has come with a vengeance to the Chiltern Hills and as England has suffered transport paralysis with the heavy snowfall the Hills and the Vale of Aylesbury north of them have been transformed into a snow covered winter wonderland. Indeed some would argue that the Chilterns never look lovelier than when their Beech topped hills are covered in snow and their valleys are framed in a magical winter snowscape.

Regular blogistas who follow the Sage know our enthusiasm for the Vale of Aylesbury and the Chiltern Hills as the Sage’s Castle is about 2 miles from Chequers, the Prime Ministers country home. Buckinghamshire is one of the loveliest of the Home Counties - some say the loveliest - and its Chiltern Hills and beech woods, beautiful River Thames and the rolling acres of Aylesbury Vale make it a place for visitors to enjoy. Country walks run between picturesque villages with a host of welcoming pubs. We are overlooked by the Chiltern Escarpment whose edge marks the southern border of the Midlands of England which continue to Wolverhampton (an unlovely place with unlovely people) and the Quantock Hills.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2009/04/chiltern-spring.html



The Chilterns lie 30 miles north-west of London and yet they are an unspoilt area of rolling chalk hills, magnificent beech woods, quiet valleys and charming brick and flint villages. They provide a wonderful mosaic of woods, fields, hedges, sunken lanes and clear streams and are designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2009/03/rupert-brooke-and-chilterns.html

AONB is one step down from a National Park designation and provides tight control on development and farming. This was an aspect you can readily appreciate heading down the lovely Missbourne Valley towards Prestwood, a hamlet in the hills about a mile from Great Missenden

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/01/roald-dahl-museum-and-story-centre.html


Village Sign on the green




Church of St. Mary the Virgin


Train ariving at Stoke Mandeville

The village of Stoke Mandeville today is largely a commuter town with a railway station for London, three pubs and numerous thatched cottages. Like all the fertile Vale of Aylesbury it is overlooked by the Chiltern Hills and was formerly an important market gardening centre. Indeed the Sage’s Castle is built on old plum and greengage orchards. The first part of the name Stoke Mandeville derives from the old English word stoc, and means “outlying farmstead or hamlet”. The second part, “Mandeville”, derives from the Norman family of that name which held the manor in the 13th century. The suffix Mandeville was first recorded in 1284 when the manor was listed as being in the hands of the powerful Norman de Mandeville family. Stoke Mandeville Station serves the village of Stoke Mandeville in Buckinghamshire. The station lies on the London Marylebone-Aylesbury line and is served by Chiltern Railways trains. It is situated between Wendover and Aylesbury stations. The station first opened on 1 September 1892, and was served by both the London Underground Metropolitan Line and the Great Central Railway.




Thatched cottages in Stoke Mandeville

Traditional houses were of wychert (flint / straw / earth) construction with characteristic "dog ear" thatched roofs which oversailed by at least two feet to keep running water off the walls. There are still many wychert and thatch buildings as well as later wood frame and infill thatched cottages throughout Bucks and in Stoke Mandeville village. The parish church of St. Mary the Virgin and the village common with the village sign both look hugely attractive clothed in their winter garment of repentance.


The Woolpack

The newly refurbished village pub, the Woolpack, reopened for business on the 6th November 2009, less than 6 months after it was a 100% loss in the disastrous fire. This is in itself a minor miracle of project management, particularly as the woolpack was both a thatched and listed building. Inside it looks much as before but there is a distinct improvement externally and internally. The toilet annexe on the left hand side of the front elevation always had a “stuck on look.” This has been now tidied up with the exterior showing a traditional looking dark weatherboarding and improved toilets inside with the side corridor gone.


The crossroads & duckpond at Dunsmore


The road through the woods to Dunsmore

One of the most typical hilltop villages remaining is Dunsmore. This is a hamlet in the parish of Ellesborough, in Buckinghamshire, England. It is located on the hilltop of one of the Chiltern Hills, about 2 miles south of Wendover. It is one of the remotest places in the whole of Buckinghamshire, accessible only by two steep, single-track hillside lanes. The place name is Anglo Saxon in origin, and means literally Dunna's moor. Today the village is extremely picturesque as it is surrounded by mostly National Trust owned woodland. However due to its location it is occasionally cut off because of bad weather or bad road conditions, and retains its small community atmosphere. Central features of the hamlet are the village pond, the village hall and the Church of the Resurrection, Dunsmore. There were two public houses, the Fox and the Black Horse, but these have closed and been converted into dwellings in recent years.


Wendover


Xmas Tree & War Memorial






Red Lion Pub

Wendover is embraced by woodlands and with its atmospheric high street with thatched cottages and antique shops it is an attractive and busy town which has much of interest and has maintained its sense of community. Just 45 minutes from central London it continues to be a fine place to live and to attract walkers and visitors to ramble over the hills, browse the shops and replenish themselves in the many restaurants and fine old pubs.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/09/paralympic-games.html

And as you leave these establishments you may think you hear the wheels of the London stage coach and its weary passengers relieved to have travelled unharmed through the notorious highwayman infested Chiltern Hundreds and looking forward to bed and board in the coaching inns lining the High Street.


Coombe Hill Memorial

A War memorial was erected and unveiled on Coombe Hill, near Wendover in 1904, in memory of the men from Buckinghamshire who had died in the Boer War. Standing on a high hill it can be seen from a great distance, and an excellent panoramic view can be seen from it. But, being built in such a lofty position did cause one problem, when in the late 1930s it was struck by lightning and virtually demolished. However, the Buckinghamshire County Council decided to restore it, and by 1939 it had been repaired. During the Second World War it had to be camouflaged, so that it could not be used as a guide for enemy aircraft.










World's End Santaworld

For many years, Worlds End garden centre has put on an excellent Christmas display. Santa's Grotto is excellent and kids come from far and wide to enjoy the animatronics displays and meet the man himself. The entrance looked good and the interior was decorated to appeal to the kids. As well as the grotto the centre specialises in Xmas Trees and has a large Christmas shop as well as the usual attractions.

Aylesbury


War Memorial in the Market Square - setting for Marillion's "Market Sq. Heroes"


Old County Courthouse


Clock Tower Market Square

As well as our proximity to Wendover and the Chiltern Hills we are close to Aylesbury, the county town of Buckinghamshire. This is a lively market town steeped in history located at the foot of the Chiltern Hills and at the heart of the rich agricultural Vale of Aylesbury. The town was a focal point in the English Civil War in the 17th century. As the popularity of the famous Aylesbury Duck grew in the 19th Century, the town's fat stock markets attracted visitors from far and wide. If you would like to see the real Aylesbury Ducks then why not visit Oak Farm Rare Breeds Park. Nowadays, the award winning Roald Dahl children's Gallery, and the world famous Stoke Mandeville Hospital and Guttmann Sports Centre help ensure that Aylesbury is still internationally renowned. The market, a part of Aylesbury life since the 13th century, is complemented by modern shopping areas.

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/09/paralympic-games.html


Dancing Bears


Santa's Boots




Friar's Square Aylesbury

The charming conservation area around St. Mary's Church lies in sleepy lanes and cottages above the town. Around every corner is a tale - Henry VIII reputedly wooed Anne Boleyn at the King's Head, Roald Dahl invented his classic children's tales in the Aylesbury area, and his imagination is now celebrated in the town's County Museum. In the cobbled market square, stands the imposing figure of John Hampden - a local hero and key figure in the defeat of the Royalists in the English Civil War. Market days are Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

Xmas at the Sage's Cottage


Murty the Moose welcoming visitors


Xmas Tree


The candle powered crib


The Xmas table

So this year as a white Xmas looks more likely I am glad not to be travelling at Xmas but am rather looking forward to good fare and drink not to mention good company in our own little corner of this green and pleasant land. More explorations are available under “Chiltern Hundreds and Buckinghamshire” in the Blog Sidebar.

Rupert Brooke and “The Chilterns”

Rupert Brooke

Regular blogistas who follow the Sage know our enthusiasm for the Vale of Aylesbury and the Chiltern Hills as the Sage’s Castle is about 2 miles from Chequers, the Prime Ministers country home. Buckinghamshire is one of the loveliest of the Home Counties - some say the loveliest - and its Chiltern Hills and beech woods, beautiful River Thames and the rolling acres of Aylesbury Vale make it a place for visitors to enjoy. Country walks run between picturesque villages with a host of welcoming pubs. We are overlooked by the Chiltern Escarpment whose edge marks the southern border of the Midlands of England which continue to Wolverhampton and the Quantock Hills. The Chilterns lie only a few miles north-west of London and yet they are an unspoilt area of rolling chalk hills, magnificent beech woods, quiet valleys and charming brick and flint villages. A wonderful mosaic of woods, fields, hedges, sunken lanes and clear streams.

One of the most typical hilltop villages remaining is Dunsmore. This is a hamlet in the parish of Ellesborough, in Buckinghamshire, England. It is located on the hilltop of one of the Chiltern Hills, about 2 miles south of Wendover. It is one of the remotest places in the whole of Buckinghamshire, accessible only by two steep, single-track hillside lanes. The place name is Anglo Saxon in origin, and means literally Dunna's moor.


Track to Dunsmore

Today the village is extremely picturesque as it is surrounded by mostly National Trust owned woodland. However due to its location it is occasionally cut off because of bad weather or bad road conditions, and retains its small community atmosphere. Central features of the hamlet are the village pond, the village hall and the Church of the Resurrection, Dunsmore. There were two public houses, the Fox and the Black Horse, but these have closed and been converted into residential dwellings in recent years.


The Duck Pond, Dunsmore

Another fan of the Chilterns was the war poet, Rupert Brooke. He was a promising English poet who died young in World War I. Brooke ( 3 August 1887 - 23 April 1915 ), was a popular English poet, famed for his idealistic War Sonnets that he wrote during the First World War. Works such as "The Soldier", "The Old Vicarage" and "The Great Lover" are much loved throughout the world.

Poets have always glorified war, and Brooke did his best to continue the tradition, and sacrifice himself in this effort. His death made him the hero of the first phase of the war and a canonised symbol of all the gifted young people destroyed by the conflict. However, Brooke's poetry with its patriotic mood and naive enthusiasm went out of fashion as the realities of warfare were fully understood.


Ellesborough

Rupert Chawner Brooke was a British war poet, somewhat idealistic and known for his looks. W.B. Years once described him as “the handsomest young man in England.” Born in Rugby, Warwickshire, he attended Rugby School where his father was a schoolmaster. He later attended King’s College, Cambridge, where he became one of the ‘Cambridge Apostles’, and made friends with members of the Bloomsbury group. Brooke struggled somewhat with his sexuality, which often led to a frustrated and unhappy romantic life.


Princes Risborough

Before WWI he walked regularly in the Chilterns, sometimes with friends. He used to visit the Pink and Lily pub, at Parslow’s Hillock above Princes Risborough, and loved to walk there from Wendover station. Legend has it that the Pink and Lily pub came into being in 1800 when Mr Pink, a butler from nearby Hampden House, and Miss Lillie, a chambermaid from the same house, fell in love and turned a private house at Parslow’s Hillock into the Pink and Lily hostelry. He also wrote a short cheerful ditty about a particularly merry lunch at the Pink and Lily with his friend Jacques Raverat.

When WWI began Brooke joined the Royal Naval Division. The early months of the war inspired him to write some idealistic war sonnets. Later, his tone became more realistic when he wrote Soon to Die.


Pink and Lily pub

Brooke’s visits to the Chilterns inspired him to write the poem called The Chilterns which includes these evocative verses:

The Chilterns

Your hands, my dear, adorable,
Your lips of tenderness
--Oh, I've loved you faithfully and well,
Three years, or a bit less.
It wasn't a success.

Thank God, that's done! and I'll take the road,
Quit of my youth and you,
The Roman road to Wendover
By Tring and Lilley Hoo,
As a free man may do.

For youth goes over, the joys that fly,
The tears that follow fast;
And the dirtiest things we do must lie
Forgotten at the last;
Even love goes past.

What's left behind I shall not find,
The splendor and the pain;
The splash of sun, the shouting wind,
And the brave sting of rain,
I may not meet again.

But the years, that take the best away,
Give something in the end;
And a better friend than love have they,
For none to mar or mend,
That have themselves to friend.

I shall desire and I shall find
The best of my desires;
The autumn road, the mellow wind
That soothes the darkening shires.
And laughter, and inn-fires.

White mist about the black hedgerows,
The slumbering Midland plain,
The silence where the clover grows,
And the dead leaves in the lane,
Certainly, these remain.

And I shall find some girl perhaps,
And a better one than you,
With eyes as wise, but kindlier,
With lips as soft, but true.
And I daresay she will do.

Rupert Brooke (1887 – 1915)


Chiltern Hills

During the First World War, Rupert Brooke was commissioned into the Navy, just after his twenty-seventh birthday, and took part in the Royal Navy Division’s Antwerp expedition. He died on April 23rd, 1915 off the island of Lemnos, in the Aegean, on his way to battle at Gallipoli after contracting pneumonia from an infected mosquito bite. His body is buried on the island of Skyros, Greece.

Brooke was stationed off Tris Boukes Bay, located to the south west of Skyros. Brooke, and the rest of the platoon arrived on the 17th April 1915, and they were waiting for clearance to head off to the island of Lemnos. The following days after their arrival were spent doing a variety of exercises. On the evening of Tuesday 20th April, Brooke became very ill. He has a swelling on his upper lip, caused by an inflammation of a mosquito bite. During the subsequent hours, this inflammation spread, which was later identified as a diplococcal infection - blood poisoning, in simple terms.

On Thursday 22 April, Brooke was moved to a neighbouring French medical ship. He was actually the only patient on board as the ship was actually waiting to pick up injured personal from Gallipoli. On Friday 23rd April, Brooke's temperature rose and lost consciousness. He died in the late afternoon. A little later in the evening, three fellow officers took a digging party to Skyros, and headed to an olive grove that Brooke and a few others had rested at a few days earlier. Brooke was buried just before midnight.


Rupert Brooke statue, Skyros

Because Brooke's party were due to set sail the following morning at 6am, the ceremony was very simple. A wooden cross, which was inscribed in Greek, was placed at his grave. The inscription of the cross stated ... "Here lies the servant of God, Sub-lieutenant in the English Navy, who died for the deliverance of Constantinople from the Turks". The grave of Rupert Brooke is often visited by travellers to Skyros. The tomb you see here today is not the original grave but one made after the First World War commissioned by his mother. The grave has an inscription of Brooke's most famous poem, "The Soldier", which was written during the last months of 1914.

The Soldier (1914)

If I should die, think only this of me:
That there's some corner of a foreign field
That is for ever England. There shall be
In that rich earth a richer dust concealed;
A dust whom England bore, shaped, made aware,
Gave, once, her flowers to love, her ways to roam,
A body of England's, breathing English air,
Washed by the rivers, blest by suns of home.

And think, this heart, all evil shed away,
A pulse in the eternal mind, no less
Gives somewhere back the thoughts by England given;
Her sights and sounds; dreams happy as her day;
And laughter, learnt of friends; and gentleness,
In hearts at peace, under an English heaven.

Rupert Brooke is a very celebrated figure in Skyros. As well as his grave in the south, you will also visit the Brooke Square, which is located close to the capital town of Chora. Here you will find the impressive statue, in memory of Rupert Brooke. From this square, you can admire the beautiful panoramic views that stretch out over the coastal towns of Magazia and Molos.

For more on the Chilterns see;

Wendover, Buckinghamshire

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/08/wendover-buckinghamshire.html

Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/01/roald-dahl-museum-and-story-centre.html

West Wycombe Park

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/12/west-wycombe-park.html

And for our own journey towards The Somme and coming to terms with the cathartic schism which occurred in Ireland from 1914 to 1918, the years of the “Great War” see;

http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2007/11/towards-somme-personal-journey.html


Skyros