Ramparts of Essaouira
Today in Marrakech we were up early as I headed off to a place I had long wanted to see; the Atlantic fortress town of Essaouira where Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Bob Marley hung out. It is 180 kms on a dead straight road from Marrakech and in its heyday the caravan trails of the Sahara centred on Timbuktu and then went across the Atlas to Marrakech and through the outside world through Essaouira. Originally known by its Portuguese name of Mogador the town provided providing one of the chain of forts and harbours to the Indies and Portuguese South America – today Brazil. As well as its associations with music and the swinging sixties Essaouira is an exceptional example of a late-18th-century fortified town, built according to the principles of contemporary European military architecture in a North African context. Since its foundation, it has been a major international trading seaport, linking Morocco and its Saharan hinterland with Europe and the rest of the world.
Interestingly as well it had been a major Jewish centre in Africa and is still a centre of Jewish pilgrimage and its famous music festival was the brainchild of a French expat whose Jewish roots are in this town which once boasted six Jewish neighbourhoods. Indeed whereas Marrakech is “Al Hamra”, The Red city, to this day Essaouira is painted in the Jewish colours of blue and white.
The beach
Essaouira has never really become a tourist trap. The narrow streets discourage cars, making Essaouira look much as it did in the days of sea pirates. The town where Jimi Hendrix and Bob Marley liked to hang out is a perfect spot to unwind, eat great seafood and absorb the mellow vibe. The Medina of Essaouira (formerly Mogador) is a UNESCO World Heritage site an exceptional example of a late-18th-century fortified town, built according to the principles of contemporary European military architecture in a North African context. With the opening up of Morocco to the rest of the world in the later 17th century Essaouira was laid out by a French architect who had been profoundly influenced by the work of Vauban at Saint-Malo. It has retained its European appearance to a substantial extent. In its heyday it had a population of 70,000 Jews and 50,000 Muslims and even today it is painted in the Jewish colours of white and blue with 6 Jewish districts and the Star of David inscribed on gateways.
Star of David on gateway to Mellah
But to get there we first had to leave Marrakech very early in the morning at 07.30 hrs. At that time going through the suburbs you see another more workmanlike utilitarian city than the tourist town. It is still chilly as you go through the suburbs which have expanded rapidly with apartment dwellings. Many people are walking for public transport isn’t good and the buses are overloaded. At the roadsides stalls have grown up to sell drinks, tea, cigarettes and simple hearty meals of beans and bread. Slowly we free ourselves from Al Hamra and head on the single lane highway the 180 kms to Essaouira. The countryside for the first half or more of the journey is surprisingly fertile with extensive irrigation, market gardening and frequent poly tunnels. The towns on route are linear and rudimentary with no cosy retail experiences, rather pavement stalls, open sided shops and in behind regional markets where the farmers exchange goods and sell their produce on bare ground. All this however is changing with signs of development, the road being replaced by a two lane highway and halfway being bisected by the motorway due to be completed in 2010.
Argan Trees
Then the landscape changes as we drive into a throwback from the Terrasic Era, the forest of the Argan trees. The tree, a relict species from the Tertiary age 1.6 million years ago, is extremely well adapted to drought and other environmentally difficult conditions of south-western Morocco. The species Argania once covered North Africa and is now endangered and under protection of UNESCO. UNESCO declared a 25,900-square-kilometer of land between the Atlantic and the Atlas Mountains as a biosphere preserve and has provided money to manage the trees' preservation. Indeed so hardy and resilient is the tree that all vegetation can have died on the surrounding ground and hungry goats will climb the tree to eat the nuts.
However, a word of warning. Do not stop to take pictures of goats in trees for while solitary goats may climb trees they never do so naturally in groups. If you see a group in a tree they have been forced up it by somebody who will charge you to take photos. If you do stop and pay to take photos you are supporting animal cruelty. This fact rammed home to us when we rounded a corner and saw a farmer throw a terrified young goat into the branches of a tree and then use a stick and rocks to make it go further to join the others in the upper branches.
Coopérative Marjana
A far happier result from the Argan forest was found 15km from Essaouira at Coopérative Marjana, a women's argan co-op. Here you can take a tour to learn how argan oil is made, chat with the women, and pick up treats like homemade soap or 'amlou in the co-op store to bring home. Argan oil is oil produced from the kernels of the argan tree, endemic to Morocco, which is valued for its nutritive, cosmetic and numerous medicinal properties. At the Coopérative Marjana Berber women sit on the floor with rough rectangular stones between their knees cracking pits with rounded rocks. Each smooth pit contains one to three kernels, which look like sliced almonds and are rich in oil. The kernels are then removed and gently roasted. This roasting accounts for part of the oil's distinctive, nutty flavour. It takes several days and about 32 kilograms of fruit - roughly one season's produce from a single tree - to make only one litre of oil. The cosmetic oil, rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, is used for massage, facials and as an ingredient in anti-aging cream. The edible oil is extracted from roasted kernels.
All argan sold today is produced by these women's cooperatives which share the profits among the local women of the Berber tribe. The cooperatives have established with UNESCO’s help a sustainable ecosystem reforestation project so that the supply of argan oil will not run out and the income that is currently supporting the women will not disappear. The money is providing healthcare and education to the local women, and supporting the entire community as a whole. Indeed scientists believe that the ability of this time traveller from plant history holds the secret to reversing desertification in North Africa as bands of Argan trees are being planted in Morocco and Algeria to halt and ultimately reverse the encroachment of the Sahara.
Soon as we emerge from the Argan forest the landscape changes as we near the Atlantic on which Morocco has a lengthy and in this region a somewhat windy coastline due to the trade winds. Some clues to this are the wind farms on the heights and the fact that the nearest Canary Island almost in a straight line west is called Funteventura, Spanish for the strong winds. Then we stop on the viewpoint on the heights before we descend to Essaouira and we see on this tumultuous coastline the raison d’etre for the city, the sheltered harbour , the ramparts of the fortified town and the 7 kms of beach beloved of the windsurfers who flock here. With mounting excitement we descend and alight at the ramparts of the Medina, the walled city.
Essaouira is a very picturesque city with a bustling harbour, colourful souks, fine fish restaurants, a nice medina, and a culture that lends back to the sixties. It is sometimes nicknamed the white city, since in contrast to Marrakech; all of the houses are white. It is windy on the sea shore much of the time, which makes for a cool outdoors in summer, and has managed to develop without losing any of its charm.
The present city of Essaouira was only built during the 18th century. Mohammed III, wishing to reorient his kingdom towards the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, chose Mogador as his key location. He directed a French engineer, Théodore Cornut, who had been captured and enslaved, and several other European architects and technicians, to build the fortress and city along modern lines. Originally called "Souira", "The small fortress", the name then became "Es-Saouira", "The beautifully designed". In laying out the town of Essaouira Cornut was influenced by the work of Vauban at Saint-Malo. It has retained its European appearance to a substantial extent.
Grand Place
From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad II until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco's principal port, offering the goods of the caravan trade to the world. The route brought goods from sub-Saharan Africa to Timbuktu, then through the desert and over the Atlas Mountains to Marrakech. The road from Marrakech to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the King's choice of this port among the many that the Moroccan coast offers. Mohammed ben Abdallah encouraged Moroccan Jews to settle in the town and handle the trade with Europe. Jews once comprised 40% of the population, and the Jewish quarter, or Mellah remains, containing many old synagogues. The town also has a large Jewish cemetery. The city flourished until the caravan trade died, outmoded by direct European trade with sub-Saharan Africa.
Essaouira is the site of an annual pilgrimage to the grave of Rabbi Chaim Pinto, whose home and synagogue are preserved as an historic and religious site, the Chaim Pinto Synagogue. The Simon Attias Synagogue is also still standing.
Essaouira possesses a classical European 'Grand Place,' beautifully preserved ramparts and naval fortifications, one of the finest remaining fortified ports in the world, and numerous monuments of historical interest left by figures ranging from sixteenth-century Portuguese explorers right up to Orson Welles and Jimmy Hendrix. Its architecture is both harmonious and yet varied, exposing at different times its French, Portuguese, and Berber heritages. Mixing historic buildings with award-winning twentieth century designs lining its long, serene boardwalk, Essaouira is, like Morocco itself, a study in contrasts - its impressive ramparts and cannon-studded walls enclosing tranquil winding streets, the bustle of the souks giving way to the crumbling grandeur of the ancient Mellah, mosques nestled next to churches and synagogues; and just minutes from the crash of ocean waves one finds the many great riads, their tranquil courtyards and soaring atriums restored to the golden age of Moroccan tilework and woodcraft, offering hospitality once again in the purest Moroccan tradition.
The former French Palais de Justice
For a fantastic picturesque view over the port, climb the sea bastions by the harbour, known as Skala du Port. Here, you can also see the Ile du Mogador, the walled Medina and capture the colourful, laid-back image of Essaouira. Skala du Port is open daily to the public from 8:30 – Noon & 14:30 – 18:00, admission is 10dh.
In the early 1950s film director and actor Orson Welles stayed at the Hotel des Iles just south of the town walls during the filming of his 1952 classic version of "Othello" which contains several memorable scenes shot in the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of the medina. Legend has it that during Welles's sojourn in the town he met Winston Churchill, another guest at the Hotel des Iles. Orson Welles's bust is located in a small square just outside the medina walls close to the sea.
Orson Welles sans nez
For a real local experience, head to the fish stalls at the end of the port off of the main square, Place Moulay Hassan. Check out the fresh catch of the day, grab a seat, and nibble on bread and fresh salad as you wait for your fish to be grilled. A great spot for groups, though tourists tend to get ripped off. Expect to pay about 40-70dh for your meal.
Fish stall by harbour
Many of the tourists visiting Essaouira are drawn by its sandy beach, but equally the strong wind known here as “alizee”. This creates much sought-after waves for wind-surfing and the town has effectively promotes itself as “Windy City, Africa”. In the summer, Essaouira is awash with windsurfers from across the globe taking part in international windsurfing contests.
Medina - fish market
Fresh chicken - with even fresher chickens behind
Essaouira is not only popular with youthful European backpackers. A great deal of chain hotels and villas have sprung up along the modern cornice by the beach, making it increasingly popular with independent travellers and packages. It remains, however, a pollution-free atmosphere and the best spot to unwind and relax after a visit to the cities, Marrakech or the desert. Essaouira has a long sandy beach that's typically too windy for sunbathing, but makes the perfect setting for a sunrise or pre-sunset stroll. If you do decide to hang out for the day, it's worth renting a beach chair (40dh) so you're able to use the bathrooms and order drinks at the cafe across the way.
Essaouira is famed for its high-quality and unique wood-carving workshops. To sample the great variety of carved woods, head down to Rue de Skala to see artisans painstakingly produce amazing marquetry work in the various marquetry and wood-carving workshops built into the ramparts. Goods range from little containers and boxes to magnificent chests and intricately carved tables. To gauge quality and prices I suggest you visit the emporium at Afalkay Art at Place Prince Moulay Al Hassan first to see the “prix fixe” before you attempt to haggle in the markets.
Wood workshop
The finished products
The Essaouira Gnaoua and World Music Festival held for a week every June celebrate the music of the Gnaouas, the product of a mystic tradition with branches as widespread as Haitian voodoo and Brazilian Candomblé. Performers include the best local and international musicians of the genre. This is a festival devoted to the feats of the Gnaouas, best known for their tasselled hats, which spin wildly as the musicians’ rock. Originating through a cross-pollination of African magic and Islamic rituals, the Gnaoua brotherhoods form a structured unit around a master. He leads the music and dancing until the participants are in a trance induced by the mesmeric rhythms of the drums, the guenbri (a form of lute) and the hand-held garagab (metal castanets). During religious ceremonies, Gnaouas have been known to impale themselves on swords or beat their heads with iron balls without sustaining visible external injury. You can see how this music influenced earlier visitors anxious to discover their African roots, including musical roots.
With the French colonisation of Morocco in 1912 a great deal changed. The French moved the capital from Fez to Rabat as being on the coast it was easier to reinforce. In the major cities they built French “Ville Nouvelles” and French people were forbidden to live in the warren like Medina’s, the wide avenues of the Villes Nouvelles were far more machine gun friendly if there was a rebellion. With the building of the railway from Tangiers to Marrakech via Rabat and Casablanca, Essaouira lost both its economic and strategic importance and went into a long decline and slumber in the 20th Century. After the Second World War many of the Jewish population emigrated. In the Moroccan tradition of tolerance King Mohammed V asserted his family's traditional protection for the country's Jews and refused to allow the French to register Jews or enforce the racist Vichy laws in Morocco. From 1963 over 100,000 Jews emigrated to Israel and many French passport holders went to France.
In any event the trade on which the Jewish community depended has largely gone. Mellah, the name for Jewish areas is the Arabic word for salt for this commodity and the sugar trade were largely Jewish and indeed many gateways and buildings in the town still display the Star of David and other Jewish symbols.
There is evidence of dereliction and decay throughout the Medina however there is also evidence that in the past 10 years the tide has turned and Essaouira is enjoying a rebirth and a reinvention. The King has an ambitious development programme for Morocco and if you look at the website for the local province it is in seven languages with an offer for anybody to make suggestions for development projects – hardly that provincial! Tourism has increased here as in the rest of Morocco but the windsurfing fraternity have made the beach their own but here there are extensive developments of new hotels as visitors are attracted by the mix of new and old. Many expats have taken up residence in the Medina renovating old properties attracted by the good year round climate and the discount on Marrakech prices. The diaspora of the Jewish community still retain strong links with Essaouira and are behind many of the festivals and events which are raising its international profile. Others are investing in this town which is still very much in their hearts. So as this old lady awakens from her long slumber make a bee line for the White City to soak in its atmosphere, get the vibe and eat great seafood after testing yourself on the Atlantic breakers.
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